Wir sind Leipziger
Hello, from Krakow, Poland! This week’s post will be a quick one, because we are having trouble finding time to write about adventures while we are having adventures! 😀
Two significant things (and one less than fun thing) happened to us on Monday.
First, we became official Leipzigers! We have the complimentary coupons and keychains to prove it now. Oh yeah, and the official documents that we have been waiting for, too. Through Nathan’s diligent efforts to gain an appointment at the registration office, we were able to register at our new address and we are now official. Fun fact, this whole registration thing in various countries in Europe is a holdover from the Roman Empire. Now, Nathan has moved his focus to the next goal, residence permits so maybe we can stay longer than our allotted 90 days.
The second thing was less fun. Since we had been gone on our last trip for a few days, our cupboards were bare. So, we stopped after getting registered to get some groceries and have some lunch. However, while we were waiting for our sandwiches to (slowly) be made, the heavens opened and there was a pretty good rainstorm that we then had to walk home in. We were soaked, the groceries were soaked. It was soggy.
The third thing was that Monday was October 9, the day that Leipzigers celebrate the beginning of the end of Communist rule in East Germany. It was on the 9th of October 1989 when tens of thousands of Leipzigers took to the streets in peaceful protest and demanded more freedom of movement. They were threatened with violence from the police but started with what had become the weekly prayer meeting in the Nikolaikirche followed by a completely peaceful march. The police didn’t really know how to react, so they allowed the march. Germans across the country saw a glimmer of hope that their efforts were working and would maybe progress would be made. Protests continued and a month later, the Berlin Wall came down.
The celebration consisted of different art installations in some of the city’s plazas and people carrying lit candles and placing them in the plazas to show the collective power of hope and action. It’s called Lichtfest Leipzig and it was fun to be out amongst the people of our new home on a meaningful night.
I will save the report of our impromptu trip to Poland until next week. Tchüss!
P.S. If you would like to help with my service project, you can go to the Utah Food Bank website here, make a cash donation, and then send me a text or email and I’ll include your donation in the team totals!
Here, There, and Everywhere
Move it on Out (Girl)
Ignore the title if you wish, but to appreciate the extremely obscure, late nineties cultural reference, I give you this clip from “A Bit of Fry and Laurie”.
Ok, now that is out of the way, I need to throw myself on the mercy of you good people. One of my projects for the semester requires me to head up a service project. As you can imagine, that might be a little tough as I’m in a foreign country where I barely speak the language. So, I’m thinking I can do it virtually, assuming that I can get some help from a few of you. If any of you would be willing to collect funds or food and donate your collection to your local food bank, we can collectively do some good for a few folks. I’ll post our group’s stats on a snappy little webpage and we can have a long-distance high-five. If that sounds like something you could do during the week of October 15th, leave a comment here on this page or just send me a text or email and I will contact you with further details. Thank you, a million times.
Ok, now that both of those things are out of the way, here is another installment of “This Week in Leipzig”. We did a lot of studying/practicing and enjoyed the early autumn weather with some nice walks in the parks around here. We also wandered around a couple of markets and enjoyed the energy of people out and about and enjoying good food and shopping at various stalls on the Marktplatz.
We finally got to enjoy some of the different music offerings here in Leipzig. We caught the final free organ concert of the season at the Michaeliskirche. This one included a soprano for some of the pieces, so that was a nice addition. Nathan tracked down an eatery that offers live music just about every night, so we went this week and saw a guitar duo and had a bite to eat. They played some DEEP cuts from the eighties and they only had one gear (lively), but it was fun to be part of the crowd. The restaurant is tucked into a courtyard-type area in the middle of the city, so it feels like it’s a bit of a secret, even though it’s not. The one thing we don’t especially enjoy about sitting outside at restaurants here (and all over Europe) is that people are often smoking. As we are not smokers, that is kind of a bummer.
We also attended an excellent chamber music concert at the Mendelssohn House Museum. We heard the Mendelssohn D-minor piano trio along with more Mendelssohn and some Brahms. It was so fun to be in the same room where Mendelssohn probably also played music with his family and friends. We also enjoyed the excellent museum offerings there. We are really getting a feel for just how much music is going on here in this area every day. It’s a lot of fun.
The biggest news of the week is that we moved into our more permanent apartment. We dragged all of our stuff a couple of blocks to our new place. We now have only 65ish steps to climb instead of 85, but we also have an elevator if we are just too tired to haul our carcasses up the stairs. We like our new place–non-squeaky floors, a sweet little balcony, and nice, new everything. The building is so new that they are still putting the final touches on the outside this week. But there is a nice little slice of green space just outside and the neighbors across the street have some lovely window boxes full of the flowers that we are enjoying while they last.
We had to go shopping for bedding and a few kitchen things, so that was another bit of business. Nathan was a rockstar for figuring out the rental contract and the banking system. Now that we have an address, we can tackle getting residence permits and having mail delivered. Sometimes the prospect of jumping through the bureaucratic hoops just seems too daunting, but then we remind ourselves that thousands of people do it too, and we continue on. We will definitely be here in Leipzig at least until the end of December. After that, it’s anyone’s guess.
Have a great week!
Laying Low in Leipzig
This week was pretty tame compared to last week. The biggest news is that we found an apartment! We will be moving one whole street to the east and one whole block to the north. It’s a brand new building and we will be the first occupants of the flat. It’s going to be nice to downshift again from “travel mode” and park ourselves for a few months.
The rest of the week we mostly did our regular routine. The weather was really nice and we are enjoying temperatures in the 60s and 70s during the day. We talked to all the grandkids, we went to church (all German this time, but we’re getting bits and pieces), we bought tickets for some future concerts and planned a November trip to Berlin.
On that topic, for cities that we have visited in the past, we’re taking the approach of visiting for an event, instead of just because. So we are on the lookout for concerts, festivals, or other things that might make a return trip more worth the travel.
We played tourist in our own town on Thursday. We took the tram to the Völkerschlachtdenkmal (Monument to the Battle of the Nations). In 1813, a joint effort by armies from Prussia, Russia, Austria, and Sweden defeated Napoleon’s army at the Battle of Leipzig. It was the largest battle fought up to that point in history and remained so until WWI. The battle was a turning point and the beginning of the end of Napoleon’s quest to own Europe. There is an absolutely massive monument built on the site of the former battlefield. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century, became a favorite site for Hitler speeches, and then grudgingly allowed to remain during the East German era. It’s kinda cool, but as with most battle monuments, kinda depressing. The only inspirational part was the sheer determination of the people of Leipzig to build and then restore the thing.
One thing about Germany (and some other European countries) that I wanted to share is the Stolpersteine, or stumbling stones. As a memorial to the many people who were unjustly arrested or sent to concentration camps, small brass bricks have been placed in the pavement near where they last lived or worked. Sometimes there will be a whole cluster of them signifying a family. The one that I have included here is in our neighborhood. It reads “Hier wohnte Rudolf Opitz” or “Here lived Rudolf Opitz”. It includes the date he was arrested, the camp he was sent to, and the date he died. It is a remembrance for each one of those who were unjustly executed and another way that Germany has refused to turn its back on their painful history and have tried to make amends.
I compiled some of our travel memories for the month into a video. If you choose to watch, I hope you enjoy coming along on some of our adventures! I appreciate that you are with us for even a part of it…the distance doesn’t seem as great when I think that some of you are experiencing some of this crazy experiment. Have a great week!
Hamburg
This week was a start of our new “normal”. I started back to (online) school and Nathan did his (self-determined) studying. We took care of home things like laundry and shopping. We also took care of shopping for a home, since we only have this apartment for about two more weeks. For more about our normal life (if you even care), you can check out the post from earlier this week here.
I was able to get all my homework done, so that means I got to go out this weekend. We hopped on a train early Friday morning and headed north to Hamburg! The weather here is close to perfect, so we just had to take advantage of it.
With the “budget” train passes we are using, we must use the slower regional trains, we can’t reserve seats, and all of Germany can buy the same pass. So, we are learning by trial and error when EVERYONE else also wants to be traveling by train. For example, we thought that when we decided to travel back from Dresden last Friday in the afternoon, we would be avoiding rush hour. Oh no. We were right in the thick of it because everyone likes to get away on the weekend and the train to Leipzig was crazy busy. This week, we thought we would be ok, because we left our apartment at 6:30 am. Well, it was a bit better. But at one of the stations where we needed to change trains, our train got in a few minutes late, there were so many people on the platforms and in the tunnel to change platforms that it was almost too crowded to move. We witnessed a verbal fight that almost turned physical. But at least the train peeps were aware of the difficulty of changing trains at that moment and held the train until everybody could get through. Then, on the train, people were taking up seats with their luggage (very common), so there was nowhere to sit down. There was a group of about 10 ladies who were traveling together and having a rollicking good time. They adjusted and squeezed so that we could sit, so that was kind.
We got to Hamburg and headed straight (well, not straight exactly, because we stopped for some really good, authentic tacos) to the museums for a handful of composers, primarily Brahms. The Brahms Museum is housed in an original baroque building that survived the war. Brahms was born nearby. They have a small collection of items, but with good descriptions in English and it was very nice. The museum next door has rooms dedicated to Telemann, CPE Bach, the Mendelssohns, Mahler, and some others. It was also very good.
We checked into our hotel and went in hunt of some dinner. Hamburg is a big city, the largest “non-capital” in Europe and a port city. So, there are a lot of people and there is a lot of diversity. Not far from our hotel there was a street lined with all kinds of foods from different nations. We opted for Indian. Nathan’s Tikka Masala was yummy. My Korma was meh. But we had a nice meal after a long day.
We headed for the port on Saturday morning and took a boat tour that was enjoyable. We got up close and personal with the container ships and saw the workings of the port and how the city is changing and rebuilding. They have made some cool choices for how to use the real estate to make their city more livable and more beautiful.
We did a lot of walking after our boat tour. We strolled over to the Reeperbahn neighborhood, which is the entertainment and “red light” district. Not normally our top pick, but this is where The Beatles played for hours every night for months and really became musicians…it’s probably the experience that made them “The Beatles”. There is a spot called “Beatles Platz” which is just a few “sculptures” and some song titles on the ground. But it was still fun to see the neighborhood.
After that, we just wandered around town, learning about the city, eating what we liked and watching people. One thing we hadn’t had yet was a German classic and a great street food: currywurst. After WWII, the story goes, it was hard to get supplies. Some enterprising woman didn’t have mustard to serve with brats, but there was ketchup and curry powder. Currywurst was born. It might sound like a strange flavor combo, but it is delicious.
We climbed down about 100 stairs to walk a pedestrian and bike tunnel under the Elbe River. It was built in 1901 for the workers of Hamburg to get to work at the port more efficiently. Then we climbed up the same 100 stairs on the other side so we could enjoy of the city from across the river. Then we went right back across. (I should add that there are elevators, but we had to walk off pastries and currywurst.)
There is a church that was destroyed in the firebombing of Hamburg, but unlike in Dresden where they rebuilt their destroyed church, this one they left the tower and shell as a memorial to the dead and a message about the horrors of war. It’s called Nikolaikirche and it was quite lovely.
We went for dinner, which was of course hamburgers! They were adequate, but the best burgers we have eaten in Europe were in Budapest. Anyway, then we just walked around the busy shopping areas, the city hall (Rathaus), and the different parks and lakes. It was a lovely evening, but we were also biding our time because one thing we like to do when we visit a city is to try to find some live music. Once it was a bit later, we tried a few different possible locations in several different neighborhoods. We completely struck out and finally dragged ourselves onto a bus after a long but satisfying day of sightseeing.
Since we didn’t want to repeat the craziness of Friday’s train journey, and since we are fairly early risers anyway, we headed to the train station around 6:15 am. We easily caught the train, found seats, and avoided the rush as we did the same journey as Friday but in reverse. Things were starting to get busy at the Leipzig Hauptbahnhof as people were heading home after their weekend trips, but we were already home! It was a fun trip to a vibrant, living city.
It was a good weekend, and we are looking forward to apartment hunting, studying, and maybe another adventure this next week. Tchūss!