We had a final day of touring through Switzerland and it was a bit wet to follow through with our plans for a big hike. So we had a drive from Kandersteg to Zurich through the rain and the mist. The rain cleared up a bit, so we stopped and had a little hike along the shore of the Walensee to the Seerenbachfälle. We spent the night in Zurich so we could have a quick trip to the airport the next day.
After flying to Dublin, we picked up a car (shout out to Nathan and his driving on the left for the first time!) and drove to our first stop, the Hill of Tara. This is an ancient site just to the north of Dublin in the Boone Valley and has been used for 5000 years. The Irish have used it for burials, gatherings, and coronations over the millennia. We walked around on the different mounds and saw the Rock of Destiny and a passage tomb. Not a flashy site, but still cool! We found a bistro along our route for a late lunch, and after a few wrong turns, we made it to Belfast and checked into our place near the River Lagan.The evening ended at the Lyric Theatre at a performance of Oscar Wilde’s “The Importance of Being Earnest”. It was a delightful production and, of course, so funny.
We spent the next day walking around the city’s sights. We drove through on a tour six years ago, so we were acquainted with the town, but it was nice to spend more time there. We enjoyed walking along the river to the Titanic quarter to see the shipyards and how they are revitalizing that area with museums, entertainment, and apartments. We wandered all over the downtown area and stopped into a war memorial museum and the city library. Since we visited the sectarian neighborhoods and all the Republican and Unionist murals the last time we were here, we skipped that and just enjoyed being with the Northern Irish people. Our evening was capped with some comedy. We love Irish humor because they are so good at keeping things light and making fun of themselves. Of course, we don’t get half of the references and if they talk too fast, the accent makes it a challenge, but it was great fun.
Although we had plans to visit the cities of Ireland, our plan for this trip was to focus more on the countryside and landscapes of Ireland. We didn’t want to let the northeastern corner of the island to get away from us, so the next day we took a drive south to the coast and to the Mourne mountains for a hike. We climbed to the top of windy Slievemartin and enjoyed seeing the Cloughmore Stone. The Rostrevor forest that we hiked through is said to have been an inspiration for C.S. Lewis’s Narnia, so there is a bench there that is dedicated to him. We stopped in Newcastle for a bite to eat and then it was back to Belfast for some music at a pub. It was a great visit to a vibrant city.
We started the day with a trip to St. George’s market for a few treats, then we drove out of town toward the west. This was another part of the island that we had already seen, but we decided to just enjoy the nice weather and the scenery anyway. The northern coastline is gorgeous and we had the advantage of not feeling like we had to stop and do all the tourist spots (Giant’s Casuseway and various castles) with the crowds, since we have done those before. We just soaked up the sunshine and stopped when we felt like it. We ended up in Derry to spend the night. We enjoyed a lovely walk into town along the River Foyle. We did two walking tours: one along the top of the fortification walls around the old town and one through the Republican neighborhood to see the murals painted there. We also walked the Peace Bridge. Derry/Londonderry was a real hotspot during the Troubles, so there is some serious history to learn about. I’m sure there are still tensions not far beneath the surface, but it seems like most people are more interested in peace and living life than rehashing old disagreements. One highlight for us was the mural of the “Derry Girls”, since we are fans of that show. We had a good dinner, but we ate way too much! We stopped into a pub for a bit of traditional music, but Nathan wasn’t feeling well, so we walked back to our AirBnB.
We said goodbye to Northern Ireland and drove west into the republic. Saturday was spent on a leisurely drive along the northwest coast through the county Donegal. I wish photos could do it justice, but they just can’t capture the subtle beauties and dramatic landscapes. We stopped at a ring fort called Grianan of Aileach. Again, the site has been in use since the Neolithic age. One thing about travel is that you never know what you will encounter. We were driving through one of the bigger towns when we discovered that they were hosting one leg of a road rally, with hot rods all over the place! Crazy! We stopped at a museum set up at the former Dunfanaghy workhouse. They exhibit did a good job of relating the experience of the poor in the 19th century, especially during the potato famine. There were 160 workhouses in Ireland and they were places of last resort for people who were in dire straits. Families had to live divided into separate facilities and once they were in the system, it was hard to get out again. We continued around the coast, stopping at Horn Head (two lookout towers: one Napoleonic, one WW2) and Bloody Foreland (dramatic cliffs and white stone beaches). We ended up at our charming place right in the center of Donegal, where we enjoyed dinner on a terrace.
It’s been a great trip here in Ireland so far and we are looking forward to more!
With the solstice, we have about 18 hours of daylight to pack in all the scenery and outdoor fun. Have a great week!
Paradise
Happy October! We hope you are enjoying this beautiful time of year! Some people dream of paradise on a quiet tropical beach, listening to the surf with a drink in hand. Not this girl! Give me mountains, especially drenched in autumn color, bursting with new spring leaves, or covered in snow. We are spending October in one of our favorite places–Big Cottonwood Canyon just east of the Salt Lake Valley. We are loving the gorgeous golden aspen with the deep pine greens. Hiking is great and so is the smell of fresh forest! Nathan’s sister, Liz, and her husband, Christian, joined us one morning for a lovely hike through the woods. We got to experience a powerful thunderstorm and then a full day of snowfall. Our condo for the month is just right for us and we love having access to a pool, hot tubs, sauna, and workout facilities. We especially like that we can pop back to the valley to do some shopping or see family and friends. So far, so good!
Fun Family Time
We have had a lovely couple of weeks in Utah. We’ve been able to rest and recover from five months of travel, help Nathan’s mom at her house, and spend time with family.
Full Circle
Five months ago we flew to Rome from Utah. We had a summer of trying new places and experiences and revisiting old favorites and now we’re back where we started. Since we get the question a lot, I thought I would share some of our favorites from our travels in Europe this year.
First play I was in was “The Importance of Being Earnest.” And I love the Derry Girls (and the wee English boy) mural. A little envious of this leg of your adventure!
Someday we’ll see Ireland together ❤️
Oh wow, I want to see Ireland! Beautiful photos!
You would love it! Thanks!